West Istria (Malvasia, Teran and Momjan Muscat)

My family loves to go to trips and on friend's invitation to spend a weekend in the countryside near the town of Roc in central Istria we hardly waited. The weather was beautiful. In the shade of mulberry tree in front of a stone house while enjoying biska and goat cheese we planned how to spend the next day. Should we go to a nearby horse farm and enjoy a horseback riding or make a route on the Istrian wine trails. We decided to take a tour of the old town of western Istria and visit several wineries.


















Driving Istrian road where you meet hardly any cars is also a pleasure. At the Motovun forest we turned right toward the old medieval town of Oprtalj. Since  Oprtalj is located on a hill, the road became steeper and winding. Before entering the Oprtalj we stopped at the lookout which offers a magnificent view of the Istrian hills and Mirna River valley, the most beautiful sight is on the opposite hill on where is Motovun. Motovun is famous for the Film Festival (Motovun Film Festival from 26.7.-30.7), which I didn't  miss in a single year, so I will certainly write about it later. Full of positive energy we have entered Oprtalj. It surprised us with its tranquility. It seemed to us as if in this beautiful stone town are living just a few families and domestic animals. We sat in the town square next to the preserved baroque town loggia where is smaller lapidary, and over the walls view shoots across the surrounding countryside. It seemed as we entered a time machine and stopped at some past time where there is no rush and problems. We enjoyed listening to the birds singing. We walked the narrow streets, small squares and covered passages and discovered several baroque churches with painted frescoes.

The friendly locals proudly pointed out to us that we are in "the epicenter of truffles" and that if we are lovers of traditional cuisine we can't leave and not try at least some truffle speciality. On our return we decided to go for dinner at a restaurant"Marino" in the village  Kremenje.

We continued our travel on small roads in between woods, vineyards and olive groves of northwest Istria to the picturesque towns of Momjan. You will recognize it by an interesting castle built in the 13th century and the church of St. Martin with a bell tower 22 meters high. The beauty of it is enriched by many water wells. And the view that streach from here is often said is the most beautiful in Istria. Our goal here was to visit several top wine cellars.

Turning next to the wrought iron fence on which are the initials of Marina Markežića and signs with the word cellar Kabola driving on a gravel road through the vineyard approaching the beautiful stone house with a yard full of flowers. I can not help feeling as if I were in the middle of Tuscany.
We descend the stone steps of the tasting room, where we are welcomed by the owners and presented us with several types of Malvasia. Kabola winery is completely organic production and therefore for me cause a lot of respect. They like to boast with special wine Malvasia Amphora where the fermentation takes place in contact with the skins (maceration) in an amphora, a terracotta pot. Seven months of maceration in amphora, wine ages in Slavonian oak barrels (4000 liters barrels). After bottling, the wine is being refined in bottles from six months to a year. Only then goes for a sale.

I was thrilled by Muscat Momjanski indigenous variety of Momjanština. Thanks to its location and microclimate it is unique in the world. The wine has a straw-yellow color, very aromatic, rich aroma that lingers nostrils. Wine is on the verge of semi-sweet and sweet, but on the other hand fresh and very tasty.

We quite happy leaving to the basement Kozlović. Driving along the narrow road, we are not sure whether it is in front of us a wine cellar or a high-tech institute. Basement Kozlović is distinctly modern buildings where high quality wines. Make sure that the winery on Sundays and public holidays are not working. On their website there are the application forms where you can choose the tasting program you're most interested in. If you are in the vicinity do not miss to visitKozlovice and taste for me the best Malvasia Santa Lucia, Muscat Momjan, as well as other wines.

It's lunchtime. We are hungry and we heading to the Villa Vilola. Let's go "to a safe place." We believe that everything offered there is to be perfect. And so it was. Villa Vilola is a wonderful small boutique hotel with excellent cuisine. It is located in Zambratija near Savudrija and Savudrija is a small town near Umag. In the past,  Roman nobles chose this part of Istria for their villas and summer residences. In addition to its beautiful villas and the oldest Adriatic lighthouse built in 1818., the Savudrija  is known for intriguing love story of two most famous Istrian lovers, Count Matternichu and Savurdijan girl who used the lighthouse as a love nest.

Afternoon walk along the coast overlooking the Bay of Piran rest and recharges the battery. Only a few hundred meters from the lighthouse of Savudrija is one of the leading wine cellar Degrassi.Ten minutes I sit and think how to describe Moreno Degrassi wine and not because I have doubts but because I do not know how to describe something so good. To experience the wine there should be a lot of coinciding . It happened to me (accidentally or not) that have always been with their wines that coincided all the conditions required for the full experience. I just admire the wine cellar Degrassi. The atmosphere in the tasting room is fantastic, and it is not rare that you are served by Moreno. To say that he is "the best wine maker among chefs and the best chef among winemakers," I asked him what he thinks about it? That "best" will you decide. Otherwise, I like to cook and I am doing it longer than with the winemaking, says Moreno. Even as a child, Mom taught me to cook stews, soups and a variety of cakes, so I went quite early with it.

Venison stew with homemade pasta was the best that I have ever tasted and Teran  we drank  fits excellently with the sauce, in which, I suppose is a little of Teran. In a good sauce there should always be added a little good wine says Moreno, the rule is that, the wine that is added in the food, should be drink later. I love to add a little olive oil over pasta. Olive oil doesn't make food greasy but fat cover and completeness. And finally, completes the Istrian terroir, the integrity of a region, and we now on the plate have all that is best in the region, such as wine, olive oil, wild and game.

We can without prevarication state that the Istria with its quality and beauty is completely equal  to the world's best regions. We can say that without fear and for wine, because in recent years it was demonstrated at numerous international competitions, such as the Wine Challenge and Decanter, winning numerous gold medals.

It was getting dark, we were tired and very satisfied. The day was completely filled. Tomorrow is waiting for us to enjoy the beautiful Cićarija.

Photos by: Bruno Gracin