Speaking of Ilok, immediately  thought of wine Gewurztraminer comes to mind, they are almost synonyms. This connection can be felt in every conversation with the locals. Ilok Traminer in glass has an intense scent of old roses. My friend explained that this is one of the main characteristics of Traminer which has grown in Ilok vineyards. With the intense fragrance, fullness  can be felt in the mouth, creaminess, even a hint of sweetness, because it is a sort of wine that has a little high alcohols and low acids and is rich in extracts. This creates the impression of sweetness with this wine, although it is generally dry wine. 

 Prince Obeschalchi brought Gewurztraminert to Ilok in 1710.  from South Tyrol's town Tramin after which this wine variety was named. Gewurztraminer is most often grown in colder regions unlike in Ilok where are  summers' high temperatures with little rainfall, and mild winters. The answer to the riddle is Fruska Gora. The vineyards are located on the slopes of Fruska Gora  where vineyards are protected against heat and keeps  freshness, so important for this variety. 
There are several elements that make Ilok Traminer so magnificent and distinctive. First of all it is the Danube, The Danube runs along Ilok's shore and is a microclimate stabilizing factor , the amount of moisture that comes from the Danube is necessary for keeping the freshness in the vineyards and in grapes. Thesoil , loess, which is rich in Ilok, is  well drained, poor soil through which liquids, rain and humidity go right true and leave an ideal amount of moisture required by Traminer. There is also an unusually important that wind constantly flow due to elevated position of Ilok, ie. Ilok vineyards and because of this continuous air flow,  grapes' health is high. By using already traditional technologies of this region and grapes grown on the slopes of Fruska Gora made are wine that win gold medals across Europe and around the world.

Slavonia, Vukovar Part I

 

A medio camino entre Barcelona y Zaragoza, encotraremos Lleida. Lleida es ciudad universitaria donde vive y trabaja mi amigo Alex. Alex regenta restaurante It…food&drink en la zona céntrica de la ciudad. Tuve suerte de haber podido disfrutar del Aplec del cargol, uno de los festivales gastronómicos mas importantes en España.

Actualmente, el Aplec presenta mas de 100 asociaciones (collas) que cuenta con aproximadamente 12000 miembros activos. A la orilla del rio Segre se forma una autentica ciudad caracolera, con sus calles y plazas que cuentan con sus nombres respectivos.
 Historia del Aplec se remonta al año 1980, cuando un grupo de hosteleros decidieron promocionar sus especialidades a la orilla del Segre. Pasò de ser una reunión de un grupo reducido de gente a un autentico festival. Durante fin de semana del Aplec acostumbra pasar unos 250 000 visitantes y se consume una cifra de 13 toneladas de caracoles, casi nada.

Alex nos explica que podemos adquirir varios bonos y asi visitar el restaurante oficial del Aplec donde nos enseñaran el museo y historia del Aplec,degustación incluida.Tambien podremos visitar la catedral y la Seu vella ,dos emblemas de la ciudad.


Aplec se convirtió en algo mas que un festival. Durante los días del Aplec organizadores preparan una serie de eventos culturales,conferencias sobre cultivo de caracoles y conciertos.

Recetas de caracoles las hay cuantos hogares y amas de casa, pero hay dos básicas que mencionare.

1. Bruteska: es mas antigua y mas incomoda para ejecutar. Sobre una placa de metal colocaremas sal gruesa. Colocaremos caracoles boca abajo bien alineados yy los cubriremos con paja. Encenderomos la paja y a cabo de un rato caracoles estarán en su punto.

 

allioli

2. llauna: es la mas popular y reconocida. Sobre la lata 
colocaremos caracoles boca arriba también bien alineados. Colocaremos la lata sobre fuego lento hasta que caracoles salgan. 
Subiremos el fuego, flambearemos los caracoles y salpimentaremos los bien. 
A cabo de unos minutos nuestros caracoles a la llauna estarán en su punto. 
Hay que mencionar un complemento perfecto e imprescindible que es all i oli, emulsion de ajo, aceite de oliva y yema de huevo. 
Tambien tengo que mencionar PA AMB TOMAQUET I OLI, una costumbre catalana centenaria que es iresistible. Un simple pan tostado con tomate bien untado y aceite extra virgen de la zona.



Hablando de las delicias gastronómicas no puedo no mencionar el vino.
“nuestra D.o. se llama Costers del Segre”, dice Alex, Croata de Rijeka que ya es casi casi Lleidatà. La zona vitivinícola es relativamente joven aunque el vino es presente en Lleida hace siglos. La D.O. se extiende desde la frontera con Priorat hasta los pirineos, cuyas vinyas alcanzan hasta 1200 metros de altitud sobre el mar. Dentro de la misma hay varias subzonas debido a las peculiaridades de cada una de ellas, incluyendo microclima y subsuelo. Generalizando la zona es conocida por su escasa pluviometría y clima continental.  Garnacha Tinta, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Monastrell, Trepat, Sams, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Albariño, Macabeo, Xarello, Parellada, Chardonnay, Garnacha blanca, riesling, sauvignon blanc ...
Con nuestros caracoles Alex nos descorchò un vino tinto llamado NALTRES (nosotros en catalán).
“cualquier vino de la zona valdría” sigue Alex, pero por el cariño e significado del proyecto escojo este vino en particular. Varias son razones. Proyecto de la cooperativa esta basado en incluir a casi todos los segmentos las personas con necesidades especiales, recuperar las viñas olvidadas y cultivarlas de manera ecológica y biodinámica. Especial cariño le tiene Alex a proyecto de las viñas en parcelas escondidas, reforzadas por murallas de piedra parecidas a la zona de Bakar en Croacia cercana a su ciudad natal.
Espero poder visitar la bodega antes de marcahar. Quisiera palpar el ambiente y la nobleza de ese sitio situado en Vallbona de les Monjes,uno de los pueblos incluidos en la ruta de los monasterios.
Si alguno de ustedes encuentren Lleida en su camino, no duden en visitarla. Encontraran una ciudad moderna protegida por la Seu vella, gran monumento arcitectonico e histórico, su maravillosa catedral y calle mayor repleta de comercios variopintos. y no dejar de lado su oferta gastronómica que segurissimo les hara disfrutar a mil maravillas.

Half way from Barcelona to Zaragoza, Lleida is located, a university town in which my friend Alex lives. Alex met us at the restaurant "IT" in the city center from where we began enjoying the snail's festival "APLEC DE Caragol", one of the most popular gastronomic festivals in Spain.

This year, the festival presents about 100 associations of caterers (which is about 12 000 members). Along the river Segre has emerged a real tent city. To ease orientation among the tents, organizers named streets and lanes. History of the Festival "APLEC DE Caraga" begins in 1980 when a few caterers decided to promote their culinary delights along the river Segre. In this weekend there are over 250 000 visitors who eat in three days more than 13 tons of snails.

Alex explained to me that I can buy different packages of tickets from 7 to 18 euros (12 euros for children). Snails can be tasted in the official restaurant Aplec, and various ticket packages may include tasting snails,"Alpeca" scarf and shirt, hat and uniform, museum tickets,visits to the old cathedral and the like.


Except excellent food, the organizers of these three days have prepared a series of cultural events from dance competitions, performances, caricature competition(VII international graphic humor), children's playgrounds, a conference devoted to the snail cultivation, concerts by famous musicians and more.

There are as many recipes for snail preparation as household but two stands out and are basic:

1. Bruteska
(the most unpleasant for the preparation)
Baking sheet to be filled with coarse salt. Snails are lined up on the salt turned down, covered with straw and twigs to ignite. When the fire goes out snails are ready ..

allioli

2. llauna (sheet)
as in the first recipe snails are lined up on the salt plate, covered with straw and wicker and set on fire. When the snails come out of the shell, remove it from the fire and very briefly flambe with brandy. Return to the fire, and after about 5 minutes are done . Season it with salt and pepper. Served with the snails are allioli (Emulsion of egg yolks, garlic and oil), which is the most important addition to this recipe.

allioli

allioli

I have to mention the fantastic "pa amb oli tomaquet and" toasted bread rubbed in  tomatoes and extra virgin oil obtained from olive tree varieties Arbekina that grows on the cliffs at high altitude.
With these delicacies is wine is must.
"We in Lleida we can boast with excellent wines. Our wine region is called D. O. Costers del Segre and it is known for wine production  "says Alexander Salević born in Rijeka, Croatia from Lleide.Vinska region extends from the border with the Priory and the Pyrenees whose vineyards reach 750 to 1000 m above sea level. Very little precipitation and the climate is predominantly continental ... From red varieties predominate here: Garnacha Tinta, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Monastrell, Trepat, Sams, Pinot Noir, Syrah
People grow and white varieties: Albariño, Macabeo, Xarello, Parellada, Chardonnay, Garnacha blanca, riesling, sauvignon blanc ...
 With baked snails Alex chose for me red wine NALTRES produced in the winery L'Olivera from places Vallbona de les Monges. At the local Catalonian MI means "Any wine from the region is good, but I have chosen just this one for two reasons: The first is that vinyard are very small, located in different locations and most are protected by stone walls similar to those above Bakar (Croatia ) which gives them a special flavor. The second reason is that this winery produces their wines in organic production in which are activly working special need people, "explains Alex his choice of fantastic wine. In the mouth it is juicy, with rich flavors of ripe wild berries and jam. The minerality is present here and the tannins are very sweet and ripe.
I hope to have time to visit a winery L'Olivera before I leave, "Way of the castles". It is a well-preserved six fortress in the mountainous province Lleida, namely: Montsonis in La Noguera, the Urgell Montclar, Florejacs, Les Pallargues and Vicfred in La Segarra and Moore in the Pallars Jussà.
If you find yourself in Catalonia, I advise you to visit Lleida. In addition to the magnificent cathedral, situated on a hill that dominates the city, the center of Lleida has all the main shops you would expect in a modern city, and there is an excellent selection of restaurants serving traditional local cuisine.

Foto by: Miljenko Segulja

We entered Bakar by the old  main Roman road built in the 1st century BC (renovated of course) that follows the coast of the Bakar bay.

Foto by: RI prsten - Klaudio Vrancic

The area was inhabited in the 3rd and 2nd millennium BC. This great cultural heritage can be seen everywhere.  The area was marked by  the Roman Empire, then by the Croatian noble families Zrinski and Frankopan, and in  the 1779, Empress Maria Theresa awarded Bakar  with status of the free royal city.

Bakar is distinguished by its narrow streets and squares that  will take you to the church of St. Andrew (the third largest in Croatia), Roman and Turkish houses, Kastel that overlooks the entire Bakar gulf  , who was known as the maritime, trade and fishing center of the northern Croatian coast. The view of the  Bakar's sea(bay) will sail to your memory a host of people who have sailed, trade and left their mark here - the Illyrians, Celts, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Croats who settled area in the 7th century.

Foto by: Miljenko Segulja

Bakarani (people from Bakar) would offer you Bakars' biscotti and Bakarska vodica of which they are particularly proud as part of their cultural heritage.

Bakars' biscotti are delicious biscuits (pretzels) that you can buy only in Bakar, fresh or twice baked. It is overdone so it could last more than six months as it is dry and in the past  it was very convenient as food on long voyages and was carried instead of bread on long fishing trips, traditionally dipped in red wine, tea or latte. Today biscotti are one of the symbols and souvenirs of Bakar.

Foto by: RI prsten - Klaudio Vrancic

On the eastern slopes of the hills surrounding Bakar Bay, from Bakar to Bakarac are dry stone walls of Bakar. Construction  of dry stone walls began in the 18th century, during the reign of Maria Theresa. With her permission locals paved the ground and planted vineyards. In those new made plots women brought soil on their backs where was planted grapevine "Belina".  Famous sparkling wine Bakarska vodica was produced from that grapevine.

Foto by: Miljenko Segulja

If you leave Bakar by "magistrala" highway to Rijeka and stop in the parking lot of the "Vidikovac" restaurant you will have a beautiful view  overlooking Bakar,  the Bay of Bakar, and the visible remains of dry stone walls. Dry stone walls were declared in a 1972 a protected area and are included in the register of cultural monuments.

Foto by: Miljenko Segulja

Throughout history, male members of the families living in these areas mostly worked overseas, in the construction of the Suez Canal (1858-1869),  as laborers, sailors or shipbuilders in many shipyards.

Women in vineyards performed all the necessary work as spraying, sulfuring, weeding and maintaining the vineyards and cellars, to making and selling wine. Each hostess know in detail the production of the famous sparkling wine called - Bakarska vodica, and that perserved the winemaking tradition.

Foto by: Miljenko Segulja

Bakarska vodica is a sparkling wine that is made from white grape varieties. Mostly prevailing belina, but  they also used a little Žlahtina, Muscat white .... probably the recipe for manufacturing sparkling wine was given by Napoleon's soldiers or someone brought directly from France. Bakarska vodica contained commonly about 50 g / l of unfermented sugar and that is why is placed in a sweet sparkling wine.

After more than half a century of squalor, in 2002 it is established an agricultural cooperative based in Dolčina Praputnjak. The cooperative began reconstruction of the part of Bakar terraces and planted them with the grapevine varieties beline. Unfortunately amounts are very small. Today is planted several thousand vines. We can only imagine what it used to be when the slopes of the Bakar Bay grew over 100,000 vines.

Foto by: Miljenko Segulja

Gnocchi

The best side dish to Pasticada is gnocchi. Do you make good homemade potato gnocchi?  We have the perfect recipe for you.

Ingredients:
750 g potatoes
¾ teaspoon salt
2 egg yolks
1 ½ to 2 cups multi-purpose flour

Preparation
In salted water boil  potatoes in the shell until tender. Rinse and allow to cool slightly. Peel and mash them, do not use an electric mixer. Place the  potatoes in lightly floured surface. In the middle make a dip and add 2 egg yolks and 125 grams of flour. Knead it in soft dough. If the dough is too sticky, add more flour - the required amount depends on the type of potatoes you use. Sprinkle  hands with flour and divide the dough into 8 equal parts. Shape the rolls 3 cm thick and a 22 cm long. Cut the dough into 1 cm tubes and with the tines of the floured fork press against a dough. Cook the dumplings in a large pot with plenty of salted water. Dumplings are cooked when they float to the surface.

If it seems that the amount of made gnocchi  is too large for one meal, gnocchi can be frozen. Freeze them first on a floured or lined tray, then once frozen you can put them into a freezer bag for more easy storage. To cook, just put the frozen gnocchi into the simmering water for the next step. Use them within 6 weeks.

My friend Milda and I have decided to write you a recipe for Pasticada.
Although we spent a lot of time looking for the "right" pasticada we gave up and here we are giving you one of the possible recipes of the Dalmatian specialties.
Milda is from Hvar (who for love moved to Newport News, Virginia) and she gave us her original recipe from the island.


Feel free to attach your comments, or better yet, recipes and advice.
Ingredients required for Pasticada:
• piece of beef frikandoa (approximately 3 kg)
• beautiful piece of meaty bacon (about 30 grams)
• 2 heads of garlic (about 7-8 slices)
• 1.2 kg of carrots
• 4-5 onions
• 1 celery root
• 1 parsley root
• 2 dl Prosecco
• 1 liter of red wine
• 4-5 dried figs (or plum)
• 1 teaspoon tomato paste
• salt, pepper, cloves, nutmeg, bay leaf
• tablespoon of lard
• sunflower oil
• vinegar

How to prepare:
Theories about the "right" pastizzada started already with the choice of meat. Most agreed that it is of utmost importance to get for pasticada beef frikandoa (the hardest pieces of beef) and no other piece of meat. Then there was not easy to get any consensus whether to make pockets for cutting vertically stroking the fibers of meat, or with fiber. Long story short, frinakdo nicely drill in with bacon, garlic (for example, a clove in half in height in two parts), and cloves, and some recipes say you can and carrots (carrots we put only the TOC).
Marinada Meat
So filled piece of meat soak in the marinade and marinade made from wine (according to one theory) or from the local wine vinegar which dilute with plain water (another theory) in which burn roots with which they will later cook meat, I like it better with wine but if there is no wine, vinegar is always handy in my kitchen. Marinate Meat  at least overnight, and some argue to this day and a half.
Just before baking, remove meat from marinate,  drain (you can soak up as much liquid with paper towels), and then in pan brown well meat on all sides in lard. Experienced housewives in Dalmatia claim that this is the most important. Of course, if there is no fat, you can brown in the oil. When the meat is  became nicely brown on all sides, remove the meat to a plate on a side. To the used lard or oil, where meat was browned add if necessary oil and glaze onions and add other root vegetables, stear fry all and return the meat in a baking dish, pour the wine (and those who advocate sherry, pour it in). Cook over low heat for a long time (at least two to three hours, depending on the weight of meat) as long as the piece of meat has no more blood, take meat out of the pan and cut into steaks before you serve.
The secret of aromatic sauce
We now come to the stage where the recipes for marinating differ, and that is the secret of a typical aromatic sauce (hail). First,  you should all root vegetables  mashed into a fine sauce and for taste add spices. In some recipes (for what proud cooks claim in their centuries-old family secrets) in the sauce do not put tomatoes but in most recipes tomatoes are whole canned tomato or spoon of concentrate (or how will you say in Dalmatia "Canned") - the decision is yours.
If it is too acidic or taste of wine is too strong, you should  add dried figs to neutralize the taste. In addition to laurel, in various recipes are mentioned  rosemary, thyme, marjoram ... you select spice to your taste, but with caution especially if you cook pasticada the first time.
Pasticada is usually served with potato gnocchi.